One of my favorite breakfasts in wine country is the black-pepper brisket hash at the Fremont Diner in Sonoma Carneros. Earlier this week, I made a specific point of ordering this dish on my way out to Mendocino County, a road trip that usually pushes lunch back to the late afternoon. This brisket hash is a 100-mile breakfast if there ever was one. The potatoes are crispy, yet tender, and cooked with fresh herbs, while the brisket features a smoke-and-black-pepper pungency that I would best describe as addictive. Of course, the simple sunny-side up egg is the crowning garnish of any great breakfast dish. I have to admit that, for many years, I was not a proponent of sunny-side up eggs, but the croque madame at RN74 really encouraged me to reconsider this opinion. I have now seen the light.