The Combo Plate @ De Afghanan Kabob House, Berkeley

Kebab

Kabob Trifecta: Chicken Kabob, Teka Beef, and Chaplee (spiced ground sirloin). Served with Pallow (brown basmati) and Challow (white basmati).

Although the busy corner of University and San Pablo is typically dominated by the smokey presence of Everett & Jones Barbecue, De Afghanan Kabob House offers the best food in the vicinity. I will admit, comparing Middle Eastern cuisine to American Southern cuisine is an apple-versus-orange proposition. But despite the inherent differences (and similarities) between barbecue and kabob, De Afghanan always earns my top honors for its exquisite simplicity. It’s almost strange that I would arrive at this conclusion. I have deep respect and appreciation for barbecue, and Afghani food is far less familiar to me. But barbecue is finicky, and if it’s not spot-on in its execution, it’s just not very good. Everett & Jones has good days and great days; De Afghanan is always stellar.

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