During my five-day visit to New Orleans last week, I was fortunate to catch the beginning of soft shell crab season, which typically runs between April and October along the Gulf Coast, when the waters remain the warmest. I do love a soft-shell crab po-boy — there’s nothing quite like a sandwich that looks as though it might crawl off the plate — and the claws themselves serve as a built-in appetizer, which can be detached and snacked before devouring the sandwich. For the latter reason, I always recommend ordering soft-shell crab po-boys with a side of remoulade, or whatever seafood sauce the restaurant might offer. The sandwich depicted here was the last meal of my vacation. It proved classic, quintessential, and delicious.